0.2mm MK Nozzle for Creality

Description

As the parts that are arguably subject to the most abuse and wear on an entire 3D Printer, Nozzles do a surprisingly good job at staying strong and maintaining a good output throughout hundreds, if not thousands of meters of 3D Filaments. Not only do they experience the highest temperatures on the machine, but they also have pretty extreme forces almost constantly driving plastics through them at relatively rapid speeds, and on top of all of that, they sometimes even have to deal with the odd nozzle crash and gunked up “Nozzle Hat” from time to time as well. And it’s because of all of this constant abuse, it’s not at all surprisingly that, over time, they eventually give up, or simply stop producing the quality that you expect from them, and when that happens, it’s time to put that good soldier to rest and replace it with a fresh new nozzle for hundreds of hours more of 3D Printing and creative desktop manufacturing.

These 0.2mm MK8 CR-6 SE Nozzles are somewhat specially designed nozzles for the Creality CR-6 SE 3D Printer, and are relatively standard, but have been machined to snugly fit the silicone sock that’s included with the CR-6 SE hotend. The nozzle is made from a tough and temperature resistant alloy that is good for standard 3D Filaments, with a sharp but slightly blunted end so as to provide high precision while assisting with flattening each layer. Just remember though, that if you want to get involved with more abrasive filaments like Carbon Fibre Filaments, glow in the Dark or any of the plastics with particles in them, you may want to instead consider Abrasion Resistant Nozzles to handle the harsher materials.

QUICK GUIDE TO CHANGING YOUR 0.2MM MK8 NOZZLE:

When swapping out 3D Printer Nozzles from other components, we recommend utilising the hot tightening technique for optimal thermal coupling. To do this, simply follow these easy steps, while being careful not to burn yourself of course.

• Unscrew the heat break from the heatsink by about half a turn, to be sure you are not tightening against the heat break in later stages.
• Heat up your hotend to 285°C, but do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.
• Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block and insert the new nozzle.
• While firmly gripping the heater block, slowly tighten the nozzle. Be careful, however, that you not apply any torque through the heat break, as they are fragile and relatively easy to break when loose.
• Turn off the heating unit and allow the hot side to cool.
• Finally, once the nozzle is installed and cooled down, tighten the heat break back into the heatsink and ensure that there are no loose parts.

The reason for this is that the aluminium heater blocks used have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass and steel used in the nozzles and Heat Breaks. This results in a small gap being created between the nozzle and the break inside the block when the hot end is at temperature, but this only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.